Figured I would peel the damn pad off, clean it up and put some better adhesive on it. I haven't encountered the double click issue but that's because I probably haven't had one long enough to encounter it because within two months the glue they use to hold the rubber pinky rest/grip starts to leak/ooze out from under it causing a sticky mess.Īfter number two I was just going to give up with the RMA thing after receiving number three because they'd just send me another refurbished mouse and the cycle would repeat. Not crazy about the new placement of the forward/back buttons and that would probably be my only negative with the buttons.
![razer deathadder 2013 review razer deathadder 2013 review](https://i0.wp.com/effemeride.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-User-experience.jpg)
I also like the green lighting more than the Molten which I generally kept it off on that mouse because it lived up to its name and generated too much heat making my hand sweat. So due to that and my finally contacting Razer again last year they've been sending me refurbished replacements in the form of the Naga 2014 since mid-late December of last year, I love the change to the side buttons to something more mechanical, it's much easier to navigate even without the position bump on the 5 key like the old Naga had, they just feel much better. I'm currently waiting for replacement Naga 2014 number four, my original Naga was the Molten Edition I bought in 2011 for WoW, lasted about two years before developing the "double click" problem.
![razer deathadder 2013 review razer deathadder 2013 review](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/B7rm5UmyY3A/maxresdefault.jpg)
Methinks you're buying into mice manufacturers' marketing. Like I've said, I've used and bought friends extremely cheap mice before with no mechanical issues. Honestly, if you're not playing competitive multiplayer games there's no reason to buy an expensive mouse. In fact, Google doesn't even show that term has been used before. Do you have a link to some of this information because Google doesn't show any relevant searches when I type in 'mouse failure speed'. I've never experienced or even heard of 'failure speeds' in mice. Funny part is, I barely ever use that button. While I love the DeathAdder ergonomics, my top side button is caving in a bit and isn't as firm as it was when I bought it. Razer has a reputations for cheap flimsy products that break quickly. Logitech has a reputation for long lasting and durable products. It's tough to ignore this and anyone who's held both manufacturers' products in their hands can tell the quality of both. Although I do love my DeathAdder's ergonomics.Ĭlick to expand.Actually, it's worth noting the large amount of people who say Razer products break quickly on them. Logitch mice are just heavier and more durable than Razer.
![razer deathadder 2013 review razer deathadder 2013 review](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Jwkv7jKZKFU/maxresdefault.jpg)
The mouse still technically works, it just takes a ton of pressure to hit the keys. I actually MacGyvered it by ripping the plastic off the mouse and "fixing" it with paper towels and tape. It was actually the plastic that started to bent before the switches in the mouse died. Anyways, that mouse went through severe physical abuse and 8-9 years of heavy use before the plastic wore out. So I was I literally beat the mouse as hard as I could to try and switch the scroll options. In any event switching scroll options had always worked mechanically, but apparently you could also switch it through software. I needing it to properly smooth scroll for scoutz knives or I'd always be at a disadvantage. Quite literally beat the shit out it with heavy objects trying to unlock the scroll wheel to switch it to smooth scroll. The mouse I had previous to the Razer was an MX Revolution. I've played on and bought friends cheat 10 dollar mice that work fine.Ģ. Unless there's a defect in the mouse you buy, mice don't "skip" or "move erratically".